1552 Margaret, Duchess of Parma by Anthonis Mor (Preußischer Kulturbesitz, Berlin)
Margaret of Parma wears a bulky jeweled dress in this portrait by Anthonis Mor. Her sleeves, ballooned at the tops top above puffed lengths, and the small ruff are similar to those of Bess of Hardwick's gown. According to Reade in Laver, ed., Costume in the Western World, p. 203 (USA ed. 1951) - "She wears a Spanish surcoat (ropa) of black velvet over an undergarment of figured damask. The upper parts of the sleeves are mahoitered (leg-of-mutton shaped) and slashed, and there long buttoned slashes over the breasts. Generally surcoats were worn open, but this one is buttoned a third of the way down. The style of the earphone (Reade's words, not mine - gogm) coiffure (wherein a veil is seen crossing the forehead) was much favored by Portugese women at this date." Her skirt is very full, as would occur if she wore a bum roll, making her dress a French farthingale.
Keywords: Duchess, Mor, Habsburg family, curly coiffure, high enclosing neckline, jeweled headdress, veil, over-dress, French farthingale, slashed bodice, under-dress, under-skirt, long high puffed sleeves, cuffs, draped necklace, pendant, gloves