Princess Louise wearing a checkered dress

Posted to Foro Dinastias by Minnie on 17 May 2008.

Princess Louise wears a dress with pagoda sleeves and under-sleeves that are closed at the wrist and probably end with cuffs in this photo. Anne Buck has this on p. 38 of Victorian Costume (Costume and Fashion press re-issue) about under-sleeves, "...During the 1850s, undersleeves became both longer, so that they extended from elbow to wrist, and much fuller. Their size increased with the widening sleeve; the closed, balloon-like shapes of about 1860 were about 18 inches with a width of 18 inches gathered into the wrist-band. There are two types:  those closed with a band at the wrist, and those open like the sleeves themselves. Those that have a band at the wrist and then a frill to fall over the wrist are likely to be from the early 1850s. Those ending with the band are likely to be from the late 1850s and early 1860s. The openwork embroidery, with a pattern of rather large holes overcast with stitching-usually known as broderie anglaise-belongs to this period and was much used for undersleeves..." Much as the crinoline was Spanish farthingale, v3.0 (panniers being version 2.0), under-sleeves were false sleeves, v2.0. In the keywords, I call both types of under-sleeve endings "cuffs."

Keywords:  Princess Louise, Princess, Hanover family, Sutherland family, British, curly coiffure, high neckline, collar, jacket bodice, bows, pagoda sleeves, under-sleeves, cuffs, crinoline

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