This shows the ruff is separate from the partlet and the extension of the ruff to form a brief collar and bertha. What were hanging sleeves are now just over-sleeves.
Keywords: 1629, van Dyck, Marie Louise de Tassis, German, Thurn und Taxis family, van Berchem family curly coiffure, partlet, trapezoidal neckline, ruff, collar, lace, bertha, coat, over-sleeves, virago sleeves, balloon sleeves, arm bands, bows, slashed sleeves, necklace, jeweled bodice ornament, jeweled crucifix