From fistory-of-fashion.tumblr.com/post/160555904934/1630s-anthony-van-dyck-portrait-of-dona-polyxena.
Polixena’s father and husband have Spanish connections, but this is northern European dress. Van Dyck presumably painted this while her husband was on duty in the Spanish Netherlands. Balloon-like virago sleeves were in style for a short length of time. The surcote is on its last legs after a centuries long run stretching back to the middle ages.
Keywords: van Dyck, Polixena Spinola Guzman de Leganés, Marquesa de Leganés, Spinola family, Guzmán family, Marquise, proto hurluberlu coiffure, necklace, lace-edged collar, vee neckline, basque jacket bodice, square neckline, brooch, draped jeweled bodice ornament, long puffed paned virago over-sleeves, ribbon arm bands, bows, lace-edged back-flared cuffs, basque waistline, surcote, over-sleeves, waist band, natural waistline, fan